Touring Southwest Colorado

Leslie and I decided to tour SW Colorado for a September getaway. I’ve never been to most of the places we visited, and for the places Leslie has been to, it was a long time ago. It was an incredible journey and we enjoyed every moment of our trip. The next several posts will offer more info and photos of our adventure. Below is a summary of our trip.

Here’s where we spent our time:

(the links below will take you to the post for that day)

Pagosa Springs – A Perfect Finish!

We decided to spend a night at The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs. Oh My! I fully expect to go back, time and again, when it’s appropriate to treat myself to this wonderful place.

The food was superb, the dozens of hot tubs were delightful to choose from. Watching the stars come out, and the satellites cruise by, while soaking in delightfully warm/hot water was truly dreamy. Then soaking some more, in the crisp cool morning air while no one else is around makes this visit even more memorable.

After dinner, before our evening soak, we took a walk around the area. Along the walking/bike path, across the bridge and along the sidewalk on the other side. During our walk we stumbled into a swing set. I’ll just leave it at that.

An elderly woman swinging on a playground swing, wearing a colorful floral shirt and grey pants, smiling and enjoying herself.

And in the morning when the air was crisp… aaaahhhhh.

A smiling man and woman enjoying a hot spring while taking a selfie, with a scenic background of a river and grassy landscape.

We ended our stay at checkout time, and headed home.

What a wonderful getaway to a beautiful part of the country that is right in my own backyard.

Mesa Verde – Wow!

We arrived at the Farview Lodge where we enjoyed a casual lunch, some relaxation time followed by dinner and cocktails.

We walked to the outdoor seating area to catch a rainbow.

Back at our room we sat on the balcony planning our next day and watched an incredible thunderstorm roll by.

Dramatic dark storm clouds gathering above a vast landscape, with a view of a distant plateau and faint rain falling in the background.

We had two tours planned for the next day: Mug House in the morning, and Balcony House on the other side of the park in the afternoon.

Mug House

Mug house is named for three mugs tied together with yucca rope found hanging inside one of its rooms. It’s over 1,000 years old and offers amazing insights to how these people lived.

Given that it was a rainy day, I opted to leave my camera tucked in a dry location and used just my phone for the pictures.

This cliff house is a very well protected place, to the extent that we were instructed to walk along the highway and when told to do so by the guide, disperse separately down the hill as to not create a trail, and meet up below.

The trail to Mug House was fun and interesting…

…and Mug House was amazing.

Balcony House

Balcony house is also a guide-only tour but not quite as hidden as Mug House. Balcony house is named after the balcony that is part of the architecture of the structure which is believed to be a stepping area for getting into the second floor rooms of the structure.

There were some fun spots along our tour including a 32-foot tall ladder, and a squeeze through a tunnel to get to an adjoining chamber.

Balcony House was a multi-community facility which is why there was an adjoining chamber and multiple kivas.

A Final Drive Around

After Balcony House, we decided to drive around that part of the park to see what else we might see. It seems as though there is a lot of other sites to visit.

Cortez Colorado

After Silverton we drove to Cortez via Dolores where the visitor center for the Canyon of the Ancients is. We stopped at the visitor center to plan our activities for the next couple of days. The Museum there was very well done and we learned a lot about how the architecture of the pueblos evolved as well as the theories about how and when humans migrated into the area. Here is a map from BLM on the area.

Map of Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, displaying trails, points of interest, and safety warnings for visitors.

From our discussion with the Ranger we decided to spend the next day driving around the canyon visiting many of the pueblo sites, then the day after that hiking to some of the pueblos along Sand Canyon.

After Dolores we headed to the Retro Inn where we stayed a couple nights. It was a very fun and comfortable stay. I actually met a good buddy of mine who was sitting on the bench in front of the hotel.

Here’s a photo of one of the walls in our room.

We walked to dinner both nights. The first night we ate across the street at Denny’s Diner, and the second night we ate at a new Ecuadorian restaurant called Udeza 593. Udeza was excellent and the locals obviously figured it out. The restaurant is two weeks new and the place had a line to get in as we left.

Denny’s photo courtesy of Google Maps. Urdeza photo courtesy of Urdeza Facebook page.

Day 1

Our first stop was the Hovenweep National Monument. There was an excellent trail that was about 1.5 miles that took us around the ruins.

Then we went on to the Painted Hand Pueblo. After taking a small walk to the pueblo structures we saw the little green guy (photo courtesy of Leslie) in the parking lot.

The last stop of Day 1’s tour was Lowry Pueblo. According to Wikipedia, this 1,000 year old pueblo is believed to have begun as a relative small community with just a few rooms, but is unusual for the presence of a great kiva, suggesting it served as a communal center for a scattered population before the settlement around it got larger.

Day 2

As planned, we returned to the canyon to take a little longer hike along Sand Canyon. The trail was amazing as were some of the pueblos we saw along the way.

After touring the Canyon of the Ancients we planned to head to Mesa Verde. But first, since we were so close, I wanted to stop at Four Corners Monument since I’ve never been there before.

Silverton Colorado

The first stop of our SW Colorado tour was Silverton.

From their webpage: “Founded in an ancient caldera, Silverton, Colorado is called home by roughly 600 year-round inhabitants. The only township in San Juan County at an elevation of 9,318 feet, this town has roots in mining at the turn of the 20th century.”

The town is surrounded by high mountains and as the host at our hotel said, when you hike from Silverton you can only go up, steeply.

Hike to Ice Lake

With that said, we spent our first day hiking to Ice Lake from South Mineral Campground. This was one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve been on. It was about a 7.5 mile round trip with a 2,400 foot elevation gain. The last incline felt like a bit of a slog, but it was well worth it. When we got to Ice Lake a thunderstorm just moved in, so we touched the lake, took a selfie and scrambled down to safer ground.

A topographic map displaying a hiking trail from South Mineral Campground to Ice Lake, passing Clear Creek Falls. The trail is marked in green, and elevation contours are visible.
A panoramic view of a lush valley surrounded by mountains, with dense pine trees and a clear blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds.
A panoramic view of a serene lake surrounded by rugged mountains under a cloudy sky, with lush green terrain leading to the water's edge.

Train Ride to Durango

This 45-mile branch of the original Denver & Rio Grande Railway has been operating since 1882. The route took us through the Animas Canyon along the Animas River with spectacular views of the San Juan National Forest. It was an awesome 3-hour ride down to Durango.

After arriving in Durango we walked over to the Beer Garden that’s right on the Animas River. We had a beer then walked back to the train station to await our bus ride back to Silverton, which is how we ended our day.

A man and woman cheerfully clink glasses filled with drinks at a wooden table, with a backdrop of greenery and soft lighting.